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Charlie
The summary in 25 words or
less - This cruisetour was just great!!! Celebrity food did not live up to its hype. Dining room
service (for our table) was extremely slow.
Now for the details.
Day 1
We started out with a very
long travel day from Staten Island, NY to Fairbanks, AK. We booked our air through Celebrity and the
flight arrangements were actually pretty good - Depart Newark airport at 6:20 AM to Minneapolis,
approximately a 1 hour layover, then Minneapolis to Anchorage, about a 50 minute layover, then
Anchorage to Fairbanks. We arrived in Fairbanks at about 2:00 PM (Fairbanks time) and were met at
the gate by a Celebrity representative. We had put the ship tags on our luggage, so it was all
claimed by the Celebrity personnel. After we verified that it had all arrived, it was loaded on our
tour bus and we didn't have to handle it ourselves for the next two weeks. It was delivered to and
from our hotel rooms on the land tour, and then to the ship. We were taken to our hotel, Pike's
Waterfront Lodge on the banks of the Chena River, got our room keys, had lunch/dinner, took a short
nap, and we were ready to go off exploring. We made some phone calls to book an Arctic Circle flight
but there were no openings available. However, we were surprised to discover that the prices to book
direct were the exact same prices as the optional excursions offered by Celebrity. So instead, we
decided to take a ride to see Alaskaland and spend some time there, and hopefully get to see the
show in the Palace Theater (we called and were put on the wait list). We were able to take the free
shuttle from the hotel to the salmon bake at Alaskaland even though we weren't going to the salmon
bake. Alaskaland was interesting, but the weather was cool and raining so we did a quick tour in
about an hour, and when we couldn't get in to see the show, just went back to the hotel. We met our
tour guide, Nancy, when we got back and discussed the upcoming trip. After having an Alaskan brewed
beer at the hotel bar, we decided it was time for some much need sleep.
Day 2
The day started with a morning
trip to see the Trans-Alaska pipeline up close and personal, and then on to the El Dorado Gold Mine
for a little history lesson about the gold rush, a demonstration of some gold mining equipment, a
gold panning lesson, and then some panning for gold. Everyone is guaranteed to find some gold in
their pan, but I would have been a lousy gold miner. I had no patience and finally just dumped my
poke into the water and gave up. Robin kept at it and came up with about $10 worth of gold dust
which she had put into a necklace. Maybe if I had stayed with it she could have put it into some
earrings also.
After stopping for lunch, it
was on to the Riverboat Discovery for a 3-1/2 hour ride along the Chena and Tanana rivers. The trip
included watching a bush pilot do a shortfield takeoff and landing, seeing the home and kennels of
Susan Butcher, the Iditarod champion and having her speak to us, viewing an Athabascan fish camp and
a demonstration of how fish are cut and prepared, and about an hour tour of the Chena Indian
Village.
After some shopping, it was
back to the hotel - but not for long. We had booked an optional excursion with Northern Alaska Tour
Co. for a 5-1/2 hour tour to the Brooks Range. We were picked up at the hotel and taken to the
airport where we boarded a 7 passenger Piper. The clouds had broken up and the visibility was
excellent so the pilot was able to fly by VFR and stay low. We took a long scenic route over some
breathtaking landscapes, sighted a number of moose (I lost count but I think it was 8), and
eventually landed in Coldfoot, which is about 60 miles north of the Arctic Circle. Since we hadn't
had time for dinner, we had ordered a "box dinner" which was waiting for us when we
landed. We ate it as we rode further north in a minivan along the Dalton Highway (a gravel road) for
about 14 miles (and a close encounter with a moose and her calf) to the town of Wiseman (year round
population of 27). After a quick visit to the museum (a one room cabin) we were invited into a house
for coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and cookies while meeting and chatting with some of the local
residents. They were just as anxious to hear about our lifestyles as we were to hear about theirs.
Then it was back to Coldfoot for our return flight to Fairbanks. They gave us an Arctic Circle
certificate to remember our journey. We arrived back at the hotel a little after 1:00 AM, and the
amazing thing was it wasn't really dark - just twilight.
Day 3
We boarded the Alaska Railroad
at around 8:00 AM for a trip to Denali. Royal-Celebrity has 2 brand new railroad cars (one going
northbound and the other southbound) which are absolutely marvelous. The car is two levels, with a
sightseeing dome on the top level and dining on the bottom. There are big windows on the bottom
level so you can see some of the sights while you are eating. Our tour bus met us at the Denali
station and took us to our hotel, the Grande Denali Lodge. This hotel, which just opened a few
months ago, is on top of a mountain and the view is wonderful. Just driving up the mountain is
exciting. After about an hour to freshen up, we boarded the school busses for our 8 hour tour into
Denali National Park. The scenery was spectacular and we were fortunate enough to actually see the
peaks of Mt. McKinley. Our bus driver told us that most people don't get to see the peaks because
they are usually covered by clouds. The wildlife we saw were primarily caribou, Dall sheep and some
ground squirrels. The big treat was on the way back out when we spotted a blond grizzly. I wish we
could have spent more time and gone further into the park, but on the other hand 8 hours on a school
bus was pretty uncomfortable after a while.
Day 4
We had the morning free so we
decided to go rafting. I wanted whitewater and Robin wanted a float trip, so we compromised and took
a trip with Nenana River Rafting which included some scenic floating and also some class II and III
rapids. The guides outfitted us with dry suits and then drove us about 12 miles to our starting
point on the Nenana River. After the standard safety talk, we set out for the trip downstream. Again
the scenery was just beautiful and the rapids were fun. I asked our guide how cold the water was,
and he replied, "Let's put it this way. Yesterday it was a glacier." The water temperature
was actually about 36 degrees. We used a disposable camera on this trip and got some good pictures
with it. We were able to toss it to passengers in another raft who took some shots of us and then
tossed it back.
In the afternoon, we boarded
the Alaska Railroad again for a trip to Talkeetna. The scenery along the way did not disappoint, but
we were not able to see Mt. McKinley as it was covered in clouds. We stayed at the Talkeetna Alaskan
Lodge, and after dinner we just relaxed and took in the scenery and went to bed early.
Day 5
Woke up at 3:30 AM and were
picked up at 4:30 AM for a salmon fishing trip. I had never gone fishing before so this was a real
experience for me. We bought our fishing licenses for $10 plus an extra $10 for the king salmon
stamp. We were outfitted with hip boots and rain gear (yes, it was raining), and got into a jet boat
for a trip up the Talkeetna River where we were dropped off at a fishing spot. Our guide
demonstrated how to cast and let the line drift and we started fishing. One of our companions (an 82
year old gentleman) hooked a king salmon with his first cast and the guide had to help him reel it
in. At that point, I thought we were going to catch a lot of fish that day. Unfortunately, that was
it for our group for the day. However, both Robin and I can truthfully tell the story about the big
one that got away. I got the casting part down pretty quickly, but I had no idea what it would feel
like if I actually got a fish on the hook. Several times the line got snagged on a rock, so when I
felt a little tug I assumed it was snagged again. I gave a slight pull to free it and when it tugged
again, I gave another slight pull and started reeling it in. That's when this very large red fish
jumped out of the water a few times and I realized I had it on the hook. However I wasn't quick
enough or experienced enough to set the hook and he got away. A few minutes later, the exact same
thing happened to Robin. After about 2-1/2 hours at this spot with no luck, we got in the raft and
moved to a different spot for another hour and a half, but our luck was no better. As I came out of
the water to get back in the raft, I realized that my hip boots had fallen down (one size does not
fit all leg shapes) and my jeans and socks were soaked. We rafted back a few miles to our starting
point for the return trip to the hotel.
We changed out of our wet
clothing and took the hotel shuttle in town. The first stop we made was at the Talkeetna laundromat
where we washed and dried the clothing we had worn that morning. After walking the entire area of
beautiful downtown Talkeetna we did some obligatory shopping and then took the shuttle back to the
hotel.
Day 6
It was back on the tour bus
today for a drive down to Anchorage. Along the way we stopped at the Iditarod headquarters for a
quick visit. The real highlight of this stop was holding 5 week old Husky pups. We were only given
two hours on our own in Anchorage, which I felt was not enough time. We went to the museum and spent
about an hour going through the Alaskan history exhibit which was really rushing it. We stopped for
a quick lunch and then walked back to the meeting point for our bus. From Anchorage we drove south
to Girdwood where we stayed at the Westin Prince Alyeska Resort. This was a first class hotel. Our
package included a trip on the tram up to the top of the mountain, so we took it that evening and
went to the lounge up there for a few drinks and dessert. The views from the top are spectacular,
but the clouds kept moving in and out so we eventually decided to go down and check out the hiking
trails. We started out on the Winner Creek trail which is part of the Chugach National Forest, but
after about a mile it became very muddy so we turned around and went back. We tried another trail,
but I quickly discovered that it went uphill (actually up the mountain) and I decided that I didn't
feel like walking uphill. It started raining again, so we went back to the hotel and spent some time
by the fireplace.
Day 7
Still raining and cold this
morning so we just relaxed at the hotel instead of going kayaking as we had originally planned. We
were able to check in for the cruise and got our boarding passes right in the hotel lobby. Early
afternoon, we got back on the tour bus for the trip to Seward and the start of our cruise. As we
rode along Turnagain Arm, the scenery was wonderful. We arrived in Seward and boarded Mercury around
4:00 PM. Our luggage was delivered to our cabin within an hour. We had an ocean view room with a
balcony on deck 9 (Vista Deck). The cabin was a decent size, but the storage space seemed a little
tight. We explored the ship, had dinner (open seating), and set sail. Unlike other cruises we've
taken where we considered the ship our destination, and the ports just places to stop; this time we
considered the ports our destination and the ship was just a fun, convenient way of getting there.
Day 8 - Hubbard Glacier
We were tired from the land
tour so I was glad this first day of the cruise was a day at sea. The weather was sunny, but on deck
it was windy and cold. It was pretty funny seeing blankets on the pool deck instead of towels. We
bundled up and stood out there to take in this magnificent glacier. We saw it calve several times
and the sight is almost beyond description. (Binoculars are a must!) As we left the bay, we went
back to our cabin and sat on the balcony where it wasn't quite as windy. We were on the port side so
we always had land within view from our balcony.
Day 9 - Juneau
The morning started out
somewhat cloudy and the helicopter trip to Mendenhall Glacier (with TEMSCO which we had booked
through the ship) was cancelled due to cloud cover and poor visibility at Mendenhall Glacier. They
offered to reschedule for later in the day, but we already had other plans. We went over to the tour
booth by the dock and fortunately ERA Helicopters had an immediate opening on their 4 glacier
flightseeing tour. They picked us up at the dock and we were on our way. We flew over the Taku, Hole
in the Wall, Lemon, and Norris glaciers, and landed on the Norris Glacier. It was an incredible trip
- I can't think of any words to describe it. (And I got to sit up front with the pilot.) When we got
back to the base, they drove us back to town and we asked to be dropped off at the Red Dog Saloon
where we had lunch. The Red Dog Saloon is quite a place. I would recommend stopping by, even if just
for a drink. After some obligatory shopping, we returned to the ship and sat on our balcony watching
a few eagles flying over Mt. Roberts. At around 4:30 PM, we went whale watching with Dolphin Tours
(booked through the ship). They use an 18 passenger jet boat so it wasn't crowded and everyone could
see pretty well. We traveled around Auke Bay and it didn't take long to spot several Humpback
whales. The real big treat was when one of the whales breached 6 times within about a 10-15 minute
span. Seeing that alone would have made the excursion worthwhile. (a few of my pictures even came
out ok) Then the radio crackled with word of a pod of Orcas a few miles away, so we took off for the
site. We weren't disappointed as we got to see 4 Orcas and another Humpback. Eventually we had to
turn around and head back in, and we returned to the ship around 8 PM (just in time to get ready for
our late seating dinner).
Day 10 - Skagway
We did the morning excursion
on the White Pass and Yukon Railroad. Since we had booked it through the ship we boarded the train
right at the dock. The scenery was wonderful, and I have a new found respect for the gold stampeders
who followed the Trail of 98. Upon the return to Skagway, we had lunch at the Red Onion Saloon where
we were served by one of the "working girls" while listening to the piano player, and took
a few pictures with the "proprietor" of the establishment. The upstairs brothel was
"closed for renovations." We also stopped by the livepostcard.com booth to have our
picture taken next to the train and emailed back home. It's free. We explored the town, did some
more shopping, and eventually made our way back to the ship. We opted for the alternative dining
this night because we were growing very impatient with our dining room service which averaged 2-1/2
hours for dinner every night. After a relatively quick, early dinner shortly after leaving Skagway,
we stayed out on deck with our binoculars for a while and were treated to 3 sightings of Humpback
whales.
Day 11 - Sitka
We had to tender ashore here.
At the dock we bought a full day pass ($7 pp) for one of the companies (Tribal Tours?) which runs
mini busses around town with stops at the most popular destinations. Sitka is a beautiful city,
although we did feel it was a little more "touristy" than the other places we had been. We
spent a bit of time at the Raptor Rehabilitation Center and wound up becoming members and adopting
an eagle.
Day 12 - Ketchikan
We slept a little late this
morning, as all the running around for almost 2 weeks was starting to catch up with us. After a
leisurely buffet breakfast on board the ship we went strolling around town and did some shopping. I
wound up buying a mask carved from whale bone and decorated with baleen and ivory. It had the silver
hand symbol attached which is supposed to mean that it was made by a Native Alaskan. We also got a
brief biography of the artist and a description of the materials used. We had a 1:00 PM excursion
planned for Saxman Native Village so we headed back to the ship for lunch. On the way back, we
stopped at a tour booth near the ship and inquired about a trip to Misty Fjords. We were fortunate
enough that Taquan Air had room for us on the 4:00 PM flight so we booked it right there.
After lunch we visited Saxman
Village with the excursion from the ship. It was interesting, gave some insight into Tlingit history
and the Totem Poles were very nice, but I was a little disappointed. However, after performing some
tribal dances for us, when the Natives asked for volunteers to come dance with them, Robin was right
up there. They dressed her in traditional robes and headwear, and she danced!
From Saxman we were dropped
off back at the pier and we walked a few blocks to Taquan Air for the Misty Fjords flightseeing. We
boarded a 5 passenger DeHavilland Beaver float plane and we were off. I got to sit up front again
with the pilot. Misty Fjords is just incredible. If anyone has an opportunity to do this trip, I
highly recommend it. Our pilot landed on a lake and up on the shore, no more than 50 yards away, we
saw a fairly large brown bear eating a salmon. We assumed he caught it at the nearby creek where we
saw other salmon swimming/jumping upstream. We stayed and watched for a while, and just took in the
serenity of the area. It was a shame we had to go back. Our pilot took a somewhat longer route back
to show us a few areas he especially liked and we wound up getting an additional 15 minutes in the
air. We arrived back at the ship around 6:00 PM.
Day 13 - at sea
Today was another day at sea,
cruising the inside passage. We spent part of the day out on deck and part on our balcony. As we
sailed along, we were joined by several porpoises and a few eagles. We were hoping for Orcas, but
didn't see any. It was a nice relaxing day, but a little sad as we realized our vacation was coming
to an end.
Day 14 - debarkation
Debarkation was the best of
all the cruises we've been on. When our number was called, we got off the ship and boarded a bus
where our luggage had already been loaded. The bus took us to the Vancouver airport where the
luggage was unloaded at curbside. It took all of 30 seconds to gather our 4 pieces, get a porter and
enter the terminal. We checked in with the airline, went through U.S. customs, and dropped our bags
on the conveyor to be placed on the plane. We were lucky and had a nonstop flight from Vancouver to
Newark.
Summary
We had a wonderful time and
thought that Celebrity did a great job overall. I think that everyone, at least once in their life,
should see Alaska - the last frontier. Ask a Question About Celebrity Cruise Lines
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